The Chartreuse Massif lies to the north of Grenoble and with the Vercours Massif, forms part of the pre-Alps:
In the picture below is Rob, one of the finest of men. He and his partner Am are building a house on the massif and are about to start a new life in the mountains above Grenoble.
The local bird life is typically alpine, with Black Redstarts being common and a pair are already nesting on Rob and Am’s house:
Their land also holds breeding Red-backed Shrikes, White Wagtails, Goldfinches and Greenfinches.
Ravens and Kestrels are frequent overhead, with the occasional larger raptor, such as Golden Eagle, being seen. Buzzards and Black Kites are the default medium-sized raptors:
One weekend we camped out, the valley below us illuminated by the lights of Grenoble. Tawny Owls were very vocal in the local woods. It was fantastic to hear a pair duetting, using the “xylophone trill” call, as described in the Collins Bird Guide, just audible on this recording at the 3-second mark, above the huge number of insects calls:
Higher up on the Chartreuse Massif, there were spectacular views from the ridges:
The view from the Fromagerie du Charmant Som.
There were large flocks of Alpine Choughs, totalling over 60 birds, up here. Some calls can be heard here, with cowbells ringing in the background:
Further north is the fabulous Cirque de Saint-Même, a huge natural amphitheatre towering into the sky, with many waterfalls cascading down:
At the top of the cliffs, flocks of Alpine Swifts fed above the tree tops:
Some birds had visibly bulging crops, presumably they breed on the uppermost cliffs:
Favouring lower altitudes, a few Crag Martins fed amongst the Alpine Swift flocks:
On the way back through central France we visited the grave of Conrad Wenyon, an uncle on my mother’s side of the family. He was a wireless operator in the Royal Air Force, but was killed when his Lancaster was shot down over Bourges in July 1944, as the Allied forces moved through France after D-day. The pilot, Harry Taylor, survived and submitted this report on the loss of the aircraft:
“I abandoned the aircraft at approximately between 400 to 600ft. Unfortunately I did not give the order to abandon aircraft as the intercom failed as soon as we were hit. However I informed the Engineer and Navigator by visual means. Whether the Navigator informed the Wireless Operator I am unable to say. I am also unable to say whether anyone baled out of the rear exits or not. I was unable to approach the persons whose parachute had not fully opened as there were several people around him and consequently I am unable to identify him. The whole of the port wing was on fire and I was unable to put it out by the Graviner switches. I believe it must have been the petrol tanks that exploded”. From the Aviation Safety Network website.
Whether our relative was killed as the aircraft crashed, or whether he was the unfortunate soul who baled out of the aircraft only for his parachute did not open, we will never know. What we do know, is that Conrad was of a generation with the terrible luck to be born to be of fighting age in a time of world war and sadly he paid the ultimate price.
The trip report of all the bird species that we saw in France, plus photos and sound recordings is here.
Beautifully written and copied Tom. I will raise a glass to Conrad Wenyon this evening. I am amazed at your ability to take such beautiful photos of birds that we only viewed for fleeting moments! You had if course identified then by bird call before, but still, you have a talent. It was such a pleasure to see you and your wonderful family! We can’t wait to see you again.