Southern Oceans 4: Magical Marion, part 1

Dawn on day four found us just to the east of Prince Edward Island. Today would be the main day that we would experience the seabirds of the southern oceans, with half a day planned around the west side of the islands for the following morning. The ship was very busy with birders from 4am. As the sky lightened, Andy and I went to the back of the ship and were greeted by incredible scenes. There were seabirds covering the entire sea.

Hundreds of albatrosses could be seen in a single 180-degree sweep. Both Northern and Southern Giant Petrels were everywhere, as were both Sooty and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses.

Five Snowy Albatrosses, an Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross (top right), together with Giant Petrels and White-chinned Petrels. There is even a tiny Black-belled Storm Petrel (wingspan 46cm) under the farthest right Snowy Albatross (wingspan up to 3.5 meters)!

The number of Snowy Albatrosses was astounding These huge birds drifted around, occasionally gathering in groups to fight over food sources:

An Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross and two White-chinned Petrels fly past a feeding group of Giant Petrels and Snowy Albatrosses. Giant Petrel is more than suitable name. Unless you are floating next to a Snowy Albatross.

But it was not just the sheer number of birds that we could see, it was the quality of some of those views. These huge seabirds would float up to the rear of the ship and pass at eye level, giving astounding views:

Southern Giant Petrel

Brown (Subantarctic) Skua

Sooty Albatross

Light-mantled Albatross

A Black-browed Albatross became our seventh species of albatross on the trip and one of six species that we saw in this single day.

Snowy Albatross

From the largest albatrosses to the smallest storm petrels, seabirds were around us all morning:

Grey-backed Storm Petrel

On the horizon, both Prince Edward and Marion Islands could be seen, the latter with snow coating the higher peaks, even in the middle of the austral summer. The highest point on Marion is Mascarin Peak at 1,230m high, South Africa’s only active volcano, which last erupted in 2004:

Marion Island

It was an incredible morning, one never to be forgotten, despite the sub-zero temperatures on deck all day. The sheer number of seabirds that we saw will remain long in the memory, as will the point-blank views of the albatrosses and giant petrels of the Southern Oceans.

(l-r) Ian, Andy and me.

Next: Magical Marion, part 2: Penguin Pain and Petrel Pleasure

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